Preparing Your Home's Plumbing for a Long Winter Vacation

Securing Your Home Before Heading South for the Winter

The leaves are turning fast across the Wasatch Front, and for Utah snowbirds, an October pre-winter departure means it is time to finalize your property checklist. At S.O.S. Plumbing, Heating & Cooling, our team has spent years helping Salt Lake City homeowners secure their properties before heading south. We know firsthand that preparing your home's plumbing for a long winter vacation is not a step you can afford to skip when freezing temperatures are right around the corner. The rapid drop in temperatures during mid-fall signals the closing window for safe winterization. Vacant homes are highly susceptible to catastrophic pipe freeze-breaks if left unprepared, turning a peaceful winter getaway into a stressful property disaster.

Securing your property requires executing a precise sequence of shutting off the water, draining the lines, and maintaining a baseline level of heat inside the house. Because your pipes rely on ambient warmth to keep from freezing, your home climate control systems tie directly into your plumbing safety. This means that scheduling preventative HVAC maintenance is a critical part of the preparation process before you hand over the spare key and head south.

The Hidden Risks of Vacant Homes During Deep Freezes

Generic cold-weather advice—like leaving a faucet dripping overnight—is entirely insufficient for prolonged absences in severe winter climates. In our years of repairing burst pipes across Salt Lake City, our team typically sees that a lack of thorough preparation is the leading cause of winter property damage. Because average winter lows routinely plunge well below freezing, proper winterization is non-negotiable. To understand why vacant homes are so vulnerable, it helps to look at the mechanics of how and why pipes fail when the temperature drops.

Water is unique because it expands as it freezes. When water inside a closed plumbing system turns to ice, its volume increases by nearly ten percent. This expansion creates immense pressure—often exceeding 3,000 pounds per square inch. Surprisingly, the pipe usually does not burst exactly where the ice blockage forms. Instead, the expanding ice pushes liquid water toward a closed faucet. With nowhere to go, the trapped water causes the pipe to rupture, whether it is made of rigid copper, galvanized steel, or flexible PEX.

The aftermath of a burst pipe: A single cracked pipe can release hundreds of gallons of water per day into a vacant home. Because no one is there to hear the running water or notice the flooding, the water can flow continuously for weeks. This leads to ruined drywall, warped hardwood floors, destroyed electrical systems, and aggressive mold growth that requires extensive remediation.

The 20-Degree Danger Zone

Pipes typically freeze when outside temperatures drop below 20 degrees Fahrenheit for extended periods. However, this threshold is not a hard and fast rule. Several environmental factors can accelerate the freezing process inside your home's walls:

• Wind chill: High winds can strip heat away from your home's exterior much faster than still air, causing poorly insulated wall cavities to plummet in temperature.
• Exterior wall placement: Pipes routed through uninsulated exterior walls, crawlspaces, or unheated garages are highly vulnerable, even if the main living areas remain slightly warmer.
• Drafts and air leaks: Unsealed gaps around cable penetrations, dryer vents, or foundation sills can direct a stream of freezing air directly onto a nearby water line.

Step 1: Locating and Shutting Off the Main Water Valve

The foundational step in preventing mass flooding during your October pre-winter departure is stopping new water from entering the home. If a pipe does manage to crack while you are away, shutting off the main water valve ensures that only the residual water left in the pipes can leak out, rather than an endless municipal supply.

Locating your main water shutoff valve is usually straightforward, though its placement varies depending on the age and design of your home. Common locations include the basement (often near the front foundation wall), a dedicated utility closet, a crawlspace, or near the water heater.

How to operate your main water valve:

1. Identify the valve type: Your home will typically have either a gate valve or a ball valve.
2. Turn a ball valve: A ball valve features a straight lever handle. When the handle is parallel to the pipe, the water is flowing. To shut it off, turn the lever 90 degrees until it is perpendicular to the pipe.
3. Turn a gate valve: A gate valve looks like a circular steering wheel (similar to an outdoor hose spigot). Turn the wheel clockwise (righty-tighty) until it stops turning. Do not force it with tools if it feels stuck.

Valve Type	Visual Appearance	How to Shut Off	Common Considerations
Ball Valve	Straight lever handle (often yellow or red)	Turn 90 degrees (perpendicular to pipe)	Highly reliable, rarely gets stuck, quick operation.
Gate Valve	Round, wheel-like handle	Turn clockwise until tight	Can become stiff or prone to minor leaks over decades of non-use.

Verifying the Water is Completely Off

Once you have turned the valve, you must verify that the water is completely shut off. Go to the nearest sink, preferably one on the lowest level of your home, and turn on both the hot and cold water. The water should quickly slow to a trickle and then stop completely. If the water continues to flow with steady pressure, your main valve is likely failing to seat properly.

A critical warning: Stick to basic valve operation. A pattern we see often is well-meaning homeowners causing an immediate emergency by trying to force a stuck or heavily corroded main valve with a wrench. Do not attempt to disassemble the plumbing components yourself. Forcing a brittle valve can cause it to snap under pressure. Instead, call a licensed professional from S.O.S. Plumbing, Heating & Cooling to repair or replace the shutoff valve before you leave.

Step 2: Draining the Faucets and Lines

Shutting off the main valve is a mandatory first step, but it is not enough on its own. Your home's plumbing system still holds dozens of gallons of residual water. If this water is left sitting in the pipes, it can still freeze, expand, and cause localized bursts. Draining the lines removes the volume of water needed to create that destructive pressure.

To properly drain the system for a Salt Lake City winter, follow this specific checklist to ensure gravity works in your favor:

• Start at the top: Go to the highest floor of your home and open all the sink, shower, and tub faucets. Opening these highest fixtures allows air into the system, breaking the vacuum and allowing water to flow downward.
• Work your way down: Proceed to the main floor and open all faucets there. Finally, go to the basement or lowest level and open the faucets, including the utility sink. You will hear air gurgling as the water drains out of the lowest points.
• Flush the toilets: Flush every toilet in the house once to empty the tank and the bowl as much as possible. While some water will remain in the trap, removing the bulk of it prevents the porcelain tank from cracking if it freezes.
• Leave the faucets open: Do not close the faucets after the water stops running. Leave them all in the "open" position for the duration of your vacation. If any small amount of trapped water does freeze, the open faucet provides an escape route for the expanding pressure.
• Open cabinet doors: Leave the cabinet doors under your kitchen and bathroom sinks slightly ajar. This allows the ambient warm air from your home to circulate freely around the uninsulated pipes hidden in the dark cabinetry.

Step 3: The 55-Degree Rule for Baseline Indoor Heat

One of the most persistent—and dangerous—misconceptions about leaving a home vacant is that the heating system should be turned completely off to save on energy bills. While nobody wants to pay to heat an empty house, turning the furnace off in a cold climate is a guaranteed recipe for disaster.

The Problem: Without a heat source, the interior of a well-insulated home will eventually drop to match the outdoor freezing conditions. Once the interior walls drop below freezing, the pipes hidden inside those walls will freeze solid, regardless of how well you drained them.

The Cause: Heat naturally moves from warmer areas to colder areas. During a deep winter freeze, the bitter outdoor air constantly strips heat away from your home's exterior. Without a furnace replenishing that heat, the indoor temperature plummets rapidly.

The Solution: The industry standard for winterization is keeping the thermostat set to 55°F minimum. This specific temperature is low enough to significantly reduce your winter gas or electric bills, but high enough to ensure that consistent baseline heat permeates through the drywall and floors, keeping the hidden pipes safely above the freezing threshold.

Why Turning the Heat Completely Off is Dangerous

At S.O.S. Plumbing, Heating & Cooling, we emphasize a whole-home approach because true winterization requires both plumbing and heating expertise working together. We recommend this integrated strategy because, year after year, our technicians see the devastating aftermath of homeowners turning their furnaces entirely off to save a few dollars. The cost of running your heater at 55 degrees is negligible compared to the massive property damage and deductible costs associated with a burst pipe. Before your departure, always remember to replace your furnace filter with a clean one and install fresh batteries in your thermostat to ensure the system runs without interruption while you are away.

Protecting Water Heaters and Kitchen Appliances

Beyond the main water lines, your home contains secondary water-holding fixtures that require attention during an October pre-winter departure. Water heaters, dishwashers, and refrigerators all need a baseline level of preparation to ensure they survive the winter safely.

Securing the Water Heater: If you have a traditional tank-style water heater, it holds 40 to 50 gallons of water at all times. You do not necessarily need to drain the tank if the home will remain heated to 55 degrees, but you should adjust its temperature. For gas water heaters, turn the dial to the "Vacation" setting (often marked as "VAC"). This keeps the pilot light on but prevents the burner from firing up to heat the water to showering temperatures. For electric water heaters, you can often flip the dedicated breaker off at the electrical panel, provided there is no risk of the tank freezing in an unheated garage.

Prepping Kitchen Appliances: Appliances that use water need a quick review. Empty the ice bin in your freezer and turn the ice maker mechanism to the "off" position so it does not attempt to cycle while the main water is shut off. Run your dishwasher through a final cycle, then leave the door cracked open to allow the interior to dry completely, preventing musty odors and mold growth.

Checking Under the Sink: Take five minutes to inspect the plumbing beneath your kitchen sink. Look for any signs of moisture, damp wood, or slow drips. A minor issue left unattended for months can cause significant cabinet rot. For instance, if you notice an issue like your garbage disposal leaking from the bottom, it is best to have a professional address the seal or the unit before you leave the house vacant.

Why Your Furnace is Your Plumbing's First Line of Defense

We often think of plumbing and heating as two entirely separate systems, but during the winter, your plumbing's survival depends entirely on your HVAC system's reliability. All the pipe draining and cabinet opening in the world will not save your home if the heating system fails during a mid-winter blizzard.

A furnace that has been sitting idle since last spring is at a much higher risk of an unexpected breakdown when the temperature suddenly drops. Common issues like a dirty flame sensor, a failing ignitor, or a clogged condensate line can cause the furnace to lock itself out as a safety precaution. If this happens while you are thousands of miles away, the house will quickly lose its heat, and the thermostat set to 55°F minimum will be useless.

Because you will not be there to notice that the house is growing cold, scheduling a professional inspection of the heating system before you leave is paramount. A skilled technician can clean the burners, test the safety switches, and verify the electrical draw of the blower motor. If you want to ensure your system can reliably maintain that necessary baseline temperature, booking Salt Lake City HVAC tune-ups is the smartest investment you can make for your property's winter security.

Frequently Asked Questions About Winterizing Your Home

Should I turn off my water if I go on vacation in the winter?

Yes, shutting off the main water valve is the most effective way to prevent catastrophic flooding if a pipe freezes and bursts while you are away. By stopping the municipal water supply from entering the home, you limit any potential water damage strictly to the small amount of residual water left inside the pipes. This is a non-negotiable step for snowbirds leaving Salt Lake City for the season.

What temperature should I leave my house at when on vacation in winter?

The industry standard is to set your thermostat to a minimum of 55 degrees Fahrenheit to ensure enough ambient heat reaches the pipes inside your walls. Dropping the temperature lower than 55 degrees risks allowing the outer wall cavities to dip below freezing during severe cold snaps or high wind chill events. Maintaining this baseline heat is essential for protecting both your plumbing and your home's structural materials.

How do you winterize a house for months?

Long-term winterization requires shutting off the main water supply, draining all residual water from faucets and pipes, and maintaining a baseline indoor temperature via a reliable HVAC system. Additionally, you should adjust your water heater to vacation mode, turn off appliance ice makers, and ensure all under-sink cabinet doors are left open to promote warm air circulation. Having a neighbor or relative walk through the house periodically is also highly recommended.

Should I drain my pipes before going on vacation?

Yes, after shutting off the main water, opening all faucets to drain residual water removes the volume of water that could freeze, expand, and crack the pipes. Start at the highest floor to let air into the system, then open the lower faucets to allow gravity to pull the water down and out. Leave the faucets open for the duration of your trip to give any remaining trapped water room to expand if it freezes.

Should I leave faucets dripping when on vacation?

No. While dripping faucets can prevent freezing for overnight drops in temperature while you are home, for a long vacation, it is much safer to shut the main water off entirely and drain the lines. Leaving a faucet dripping unattended for months wastes thousands of gallons of water and risks overflowing the sink if the drain becomes slow or clogged while you are absent.

Enjoy Your Winter Away With Complete Peace of Mind

Preparing your home's plumbing for a long winter vacation does not have to be a source of anxiety. By following these exact steps—shutting off the main water, thoroughly draining the lines, and keeping the thermostat set to a safe 55 degrees—you can ensure a worry-free winter away from the snow. Taking the time during your October pre-winter departure to secure the house means you can fully relax and enjoy the warmer weather.

Remember that S.O.S. Plumbing, Heating & Cooling is ready to assist with your whole-home preparation. Whether you need help locating a stubborn water shutoff valve or want to ensure your furnace is ready to stand guard while you are gone, encourage yourself to schedule your system checks before the deep freezes arrive. Reach out to our professional team today to secure your home for the season.